Long Living Tortoise's Walk in Tokyo
Half a day in Osaka; Waterfront modern Nakanoshima
Yoshie Iimori
March 26, 2001
Today's course: Osaka Stock Exchange—The Namba bridge— Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima Library—Osaka City Hall—the Bank of Japan, Osaka branch—Sumitomo Bank—Osaka Gas Building—Tsuruhashi
Walking day: Wednesday the 7th February 2001
What would you do in your spare time when you travelled out of Tokyo on business? In February I went to Osaka on business to visit a factory. I had an appointment at two o'clock, so I wanted to arrive at the city early morning in order to have a walk around it. If I had a whole day and I knew that place well, I would have just explored a certain area without any particular plan, using only my instinct for searching for something interesting. Yet I had only about four hours and did not know Osaka well, so I referred to a guidebook and a Tourist Bureau's website to arrange half a day's tour before I launched my trip, to make sure that I could visit some wonderful spots.
I decided to walk in the area of Nakanoshima. One of my friends, who was about to earn her doctorate for the history of architecture, suggested that I should see the modern buildings in the centre of Osaka city and some bridges over the rivers where merchants used to make deals. Some say Osaka is similar to Venice because there are many canals and rivers which used to be the main transporting way. Even today people can enjoy walking along the riverbanks, they look pedestrian-friendly, although there were not many people about as it was a cold rainy weekday.
The first step out of the Kitahama subway station was in front of the Osaka Stock Exchange. The entrance of its round shape building was shut and the door was blocked with a thick rope. I wondered, "is this building not being used anymore?" I started to walk around it and looked for a door through which I could enter, but I failed. There are many stockbrokers who have a main office near the Stock Exchange. Some of them still work in their original buildings.
A lion statue stood vigorously at its approach as if it has always saved the Namba bridge guarding in the front of the Stock Exchange. I crossed the bridge which was one of the oldest major modern bridges in the city, and turned left toward Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima Library, which had four columns at the front. According to the guidebook focusing at the modern architecture in Kansai area, the library was donated by a rich merchant Sumitomo family and opened in 1904. The building itself was registered as one of the national important cultural properties.
In the centre of the building, under the stained glass dome, I stood still and I saw a beautiful dark brown wooden spiral staircase whose banisters were polished well, that original shape of a staircase is not usually seen in an ordinary public library. I stepped up the dark stairs and I felt soft light entering through the glass window, thanks to the darkness of the stairwell, the light was so precious. I looked downstairs leaning on the handrail for a while.
I spent plenty of time browsing through several books on post war Osaka. The library had many materials about this historic metropolis. They also showed several books of their collection in a showcase. Then they featured Kenkado Kimura, who was a talented Osaka merchant of rice wine and scholar of literature in Edo period, commemorating the two centuries since his death (in fact, he died in 1802). When one reads his diary, one can see why many people were attracted to him and respected his character and knowledge.
I suddenly realised how long I was in the library, and I went out of the building and started to walk again. Next to the library was the City Hall, which also had columns, and crossing over the Midosuji Street, another big building with columns, the Bank of Japan. When I showed the pictures of those buildings to my friends who had never been there, they thought they were taken in Europe. I imagined that every stone building reminded them of Europe. I would like to know what Europeans think of our buildings which imitate European style and which were built in the Far East.
I crossed the Higo bridge over the Tosabori river, noticing a huge mass of square sandy grey blocks. It was the main office of Sumitomo Bank. I felt the wall would continue forever as I passed it by. I turned right into Midosuji street at the corner of it.
I saw a white building with its long linteled windows, which were outstanding and conspicuously horizontal. The corner of the building was rounded and I felt it was beautiful, checking it up on my map. I found out that it was the Osaka Gas Building which had been constructed in 1933. According to my guidebook, it was one of the most beautiful office buildings in Osaka, and I had to admit it. No one however seemed to care about it and everyone looked at me reckoning I was a complete stranger because I stood on the corner and took several photographs of it. I was quite satisfied to see it. If I had had more time, I would have gone inside.
Just before I headed to the factory, I wandered off towards the subway station walking through the narrow streets in Dosho-machi where there are many modern medicine companies and small pretty hospitals. I enjoyed my morning walk in Osaka before my work.
My factory to be found was in Tsuruhashi where there is a Korean market surrounded by many Korean barbecue restaurants. I went there a year ago, and enjoyed Korean snacks while my friend and I looked into the small shops in the market. Remembering them, I came here to have some, but most of those shops in the market were closed on Wednesdays so that I could not pick up anything. My free time was over when I saw my boss.
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