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Long Living Tortoise's Walk in Tokyo
"Walk in Tokyo Club meeting held every season"

Yoshie Iimori
August 6, 2001

The topic today is "the boundaries of Shinjuku." Your image of Shinjuku at present is probably as the center of Tokyo. But I would like to present an opposite idea. Yet, the true meaning of the subject is extremely simple, and that is just to walk about the boundaries of Shinjuku Ward. Thus, I'm not talking about the part of Shinjuku that many people would imagine such as the bustling streets around Shinjuku station. There are a number of elements such as Mitsuke and the moat between Iidabashi and Yotsuya that remind you of"Edo", and, in spite of being in the center of Tokyo, there are peacefulness and plenty of green between the Imperial palace and Shinjuku Gyoen gardens. Shinjuku Ward has a variety of attractions that cannot be put in one sentence. So I set up a course to walk from Iidabashi station to Ichigaya and to Yotsuya along the moat toward the Akasaka Imperial palace, the Jingu Gaien gardens, Shinjuku Gyoen gardens, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office.

The sky was blue with fierce heat on that day. What is indispensable when taking a walk in the summer is water and a hat. You should never get heat disorder from a walk which is supposed to be pleasurable. Each of the participants was carrying a canteen or a plastic bottle to drink. Those people who showed up at 10:30am to meet in front of Iidabashi station where it commands a view of the Ushigome Bridge were all experts in walking. We made a start only with eight participants just as I expected that it would be a small group only with people who sincerely loved walking since it was the first three-day holiday of the summer and the course was planned to be quite long.

Taking a view of the Ushigome Bridge, I choose to walk in the shade on a promenade along the moat. I assume that many people have enjoyed the view of cherry blossoms on the banks from the windows of the Chuo train, but have they ever actually walked from here to Hosei University? Sotobori Boulevard, which is on the Shinjuku Ward side of the moat, is a wide and busy street, but it is quiet and comfortable on this side. To go along with the subject of the walk, I should walk on Sotobori Boulevard, but I chose to walk on the Chiyoda Ward side just to pursue the pleasure of walking. Going back on Sotobori Boulevard at Ichigaya, I keep walking toward Yotsuya from there as passing through a park. On the tennis courts on the way, I saw a lot of people chasing the yellow balls under a burning sun. There was an amusement park for children some distance ahead, and I found a slide with a tall spiral staircase. Feeling "I've got to go up to the top," I followed a child. It was a bit too tight for my fully-grown body, but there was a wonderful view from the top. The feeling of spiralling down reminded me of a sweet old time. It was worth climbing up even by bending my body. It may be a good idea once in a while to do something that doesn't fit your size as a way of experiencing a different world.

At 11:30am, we arrived at Yotsuya station. Although both the region and station are called Yotsuya, they are written in different kanji. Sophia University was right in front of the station, and there was a rather jumbled-up business district with shops selling Christian goods and books, a pharmacy with a long history, an area with a number of bars, and so on.

There was also a sightseeing bus in front of the official overseas VIP guest house. I was impressed to know that people would visit such guest house for sightseeing in Tokyo. The guest house standing at a distance from the gate was built in Meiji 42 as the Crown Prince's Palace by one of the first four Japanese architects, Toukuma Katayama. It was in 1974 when it was redecorated by Tougo Murayama to make it function as a guest house for VIPs from abroad. Although it also looks beautiful from the outside, as looking at a picture in a book I have with me right now, the gorgeousness of the interior is just astonishing. It is open to the public in a specific time of the year, so I absolutely have to go and see it.

Walking up the hill while looking at the deep greenery of the Imperial villa on the side, we entered the Meiji Memorial hall. It is said that this building with a carriage entrance of the Meiji era was dismantled and reconstructed here after the drafting of the Constitution of Japan was discussed in the building. Just when I was staring at the ceiling of the carriage entrance as listening to one of the brains saying that it was rather strange that such a splendid modern Japanese-style architecture has not been become public, I found a light being reinforced with cellophane tape. Oh, wow. I can't help feeling attracted by such take-it-easy kind of spirit.

When thinking of the Meiji era, you also cannot forget the picture gallery next to it. The Seitoku memorial picture gallery is really like a history text book as there are a number of pictures giving praise to "the great achievement" of the Emperor Meiji being exhibited. As a matter of fact, quite many of them have actually been printed on a text book. Yet, from a point of view at present time, there are some problem expressions such as discriminatory words here and there. The annexation of Korea is also considered as an achievement here, and they are letting each state of Korea to pay and draw pictures. Now, an issue is how to pass it down to children, but I recommend you to visit the picture gallery and actually see the expression to begin with.

On the way from the Jingu Gaien gardens through Sendagaya, I found a house which was almost falling into ruins. It seems that it was originally supposed to be demolished to build a new building after that, but it has been left there even after the scheduled construction time. The building had artificial scrubbed walls, and it was built of wood when seen from the back. Assuming that it might have been used as an apartment, and wondering how come such building has been left at the entrance of a freeway, I printed the building, which was going to be demolished sooner or later, on my memory.

We take a break for a while at Shinjuku Gyoen Gardens. I sit down on the lawn, which has been mown short, and stretched my legs. Being under the shade of a large tree, I feel relieved. I lay down wishing to spend the whole day peacefully here and think about how I always rush about in such a busy life. I promised to myself that I would be spending a holiday lying down and reading a book in Gyoen someday. Inside the gardens, which is always in good condition and also designed with a variety of great ideas such as the French garden, British garden, and Japanese garden, is extremely comfortable. Yet, the main gate which doesn't open is regretful. There is even no directions listed there. This splendid main gate is to be used only for the events related to the government or the Imperial palace. It was of course opened when the Imperial Funeral for the Emperor Showa was held here at Shinjuku Gardens. It's a story that makes me aware that it is surely the "Imperial Gardens."

The final destination is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office building. We decided to view Shinjuku Ward, and also see where we didn't have a chance to walk, from the observation deck. Although it was a bit foggy, the view was not as bad as I thought. I could almost get a full view of Tokyo. We followed with our eyes the course we had walked. "It's unbelievable that we walked that far!" All of us are surprised once again. Although being experts in walking, we are quite tired with the heat and also by realizing how far wed walked. Unable to restrain ourselves, we relieved our thirst with beer at the observation platform, and ended the club meeting.

Translated by Maiko Noda

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