Long Living Tortoise's Walk in Tokyo
"Temples as amusement parks"
Yoshie Iimori
December 10, 2001
Visiting temples and shrines is great sightseeing. At the gate there is shops selling dumplings and sweet amazake sake which will tempt you. There are other shops standing side by side such as a souvenir shop that makes you feel as if the pickles and mixed spices you buy there are especially valuable for some reason even though you can actually find the same products anywhere else. And there also is a shop selling Buddhist altar fittings that seems to be quite unchanged from old times judging from the products they carry. Though I keep walking, saying, "I guess I'm going to pay a visit first to the shrineÉ" to myself, I can't help looking at the shelf of each shop and sniffing at the savory smell of rice crackers being baked with soy sauce.

Fukagawa Fudoson. The roof you see at the back is that of the modern four-storied temple.
When going into the temple or the precincts, since there are some halls with a great deal of engravings and beautiful colors, I always find myself behaving like a typical visitor by walking while looking up. If there were also such seasonal flowers as ume blossoms, cherry blossoms, or wisteria blooming in addition, I'd also have to enjoy them. And I'm sure I'd drink sake if I were a drinker, or I'd stuff my mouth with snacks or something if I were a non-drinker.
Further inside there is the Buddha image to worship. Buddha statues appear in a variety of ways depending on the places; some glitter while others are placed deep in a complete dark hall with a hint of light so that they are hardly visible. There are temples capitalizing on such attraction as to let visitors to make a round along the wall under the ground where there is completely no light, and tell them that their prayers would be answered if they pray by touching the lock placed right under the Buddha.
That is great fun.
Regardless if there is a religious feeling or not, it must have been an exciting place to go when there were not a lot of recreation available.
There is another place where you can still experience that kind of feeling even today.

Tomioka Hachimangu. Here you can receive a sticker with a cute pigeon design as well as a good-luck charm.
For the ninth activity of the Tokyo Walking Club, we went to enjoy the area of Monzen-nakacho entitled "Fukagawa No.2". It's a town with an atmosphere that is unchanged since olden times. Of course, Fukagawa Fudoson and Tomioka Hachimangu are the center of the town. The Fudoson is quite prosperous, and there are some families visiting there for Shichigosan-festival and young couples walking within the site probably on a date. Being built of wood, it certainly appears to be a typical shrine at first. Yet the inside of it is extremely modern. It actually gives the impression making you feel "They must be making quite a profit." It's a four-storied building. I wonder if it's a trace reflecting the fact that it used to be a place for dekaicho, an event in which the Buddha image is open to the public, of Mt. Narita, but there is some kind of paper sash with the letters "Mt. Narita" being hung at the entrance with a sign saying "hang it from your neck while paying a visit." Of course, I borrowed it to enjoy the virtual world.
Going along a passageway, you see a bridge. I heard that if you write your name on a stone while making a wish and throw it into the water, you will have your wish fulfilled. And the price of that stone is 2,000 yen. That is such good business. Without buying a stone I cross the bridge. There are statues of Buddha on the right side, each enshrined separately. I peek into every one of them. Some old ladies are praying to those statues one by one as if those were very precious to them. There is an arrow guiding you to go up by an elevator.

Suzaki Shrine.
There is a system that allows you to make a Shikoku pilgrimage while in Fukagawa. The wall is surrounded by something that look like prayer Mani Wheels, and you are to make a round of the room while turning them. It seems that each wheel contains some soil from the pilgrimage site, and there are offertory boxes placed in front of every wheel. There is a picture of Buddha on the back of each wheel, and it takes quite a while if to pray with all of them in the proper way. Surprisingly, the whole room is illuminated by black lights, and the statues of Buddha are made in garish colors. The whole space is creating an image not much better than that of a game arcade or a haunted house at an amusement park. It could be considered quite vulgar. Going up even further you see a temple where a dedication Buddha lies. The wall surfaces are made of gold tiles, and each one is carved with an image of Buddha. I really liked it. When building a house in the future I'll use them as tiles in the bathroom.
The Walking Club still has more and more activities. With this club, I can always find something interesting. I strongly hope you all to participate in future activities.
Translated by Maiko Noda
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