Kyonpe's Corner
"Kyonpe's Tree"
Kyonpe
September 17, 2001
Early in the afternoon still hot in the late summer, I get out of the car in the parking lot and walk to the station. There is a towering cherry tree on the way, stretching out and providing a comfortable shade. An ordinary person like me would not have even noticed the cherry tree unless it was blossoming.
Kyonpe and her family used to go to see the cherry blossoms every year, in spite of her husband who always used work as an excuse not to go but simply did not appreciate them. But this year she could see a single, young cherry tree from her hospital room. Since she couldn't walk under the flurry of falling cherry blossoms, I picked some to make pressed flowers so she could at least see and touch those. But they remain between the pages of an encyclopedia, nicely pressed. I recognize them as the cherry blossoms now only because I remember having picked them.
During the Shinto Tenth Day Festival a priest told me, "The spirit of the deceased is not somewhere far away in the sky or across the sea, but they are close by our sides. We just cannot see them." They must be just like the cherry trees when they aren't blossoming, standing there without being noticed by anybody.
As a means of remembering someone who has passed on, I would like to introduce some recipes and pictures regularly from a column called "Katei no aji (Home cooking)" that Kyonpe wrote in a cooking magazine called Shiki no aji (Taste of four seasons). I'd like to express my gratitude to Mr. Masatsugu Hasegawa, the president of the company, for his generous cooperation on this project.
The first dish is "Corned beef," which was introduced in a special feature called "Cooking learnt in foreign countries" from the September 7, 1994, issue. When we speak of corned beef in Japan, it means a canned meat, but the one we had in the United States was completely different.
Corned Beef
Spring in Michigan was beautiful. In the northern regions every kind of flower, from peaches and apricots to apples, would all blossom together. Autumn there was even more gorgeous. Maples would turn red as if they were burning, and a variety of nuts would be served on a table in every household. After celebrating Halloween and then Thanksgiving, the whole view from the window would be covered with snow.
It was about that time when the families of foreign students, living abroad for the first time and feeling lonely, were invited to an American household. The nuts heaped up in a corner of the room were still covered in their shells. The guests sat and chatted while cracking the nuts before dinner. What surprised me was the crunchy texture of the nuts as even the chestnuts were uncooked. The shells of those chestnuts were easy to peel and I enjoyed peeling one after another with the children as feeling if I were a mouse or something.
"We're cooking corned beef for you today"
Emily smiled as she said that. She was a member of a volunteer group introducing American history, cooking, and crafts to the wives of foreign students. At that time, I only knew of corned beef as "canned meat," so I was expecting it to be served with fried potatoes or sandwiches. As a matter of fact, corned beef was not a very attractive kind of food for me until then. But I was wondering what was the gorgeous smell that was filling the room. As we entered the dining room we all exclaimed. On a dining table that reminded us of an America from a bygone era, a big pot was placed splendidly at the center with almost whole potatoes and carrots giving off a wonderful golden steam. And in the middle sat a huge chunk of meat, cooked so well it was almost falling into pieces.With Emily's husband taking care of the wine, the friendly party started. But I couldn't stop wondering.
"Emily, where is the corned beef?"
"This is it"
It was amazing, but she was saying that this was the corned beef. Taking the first mouthful, I was moved. The simple yet rich taste was indescribable! It wasn't a complex flavor. It had the taste of home which you never tire of eating.
Being back in Japan now I still remember that time sometimes like a dream. Since I can't find corned beef here, which was so easy to get in the United States, I have no choice but to make it myself. Since I was lucky enought to find a recipe for it I cook it sometimes now. My husband and children enjoy it so much and go for second helpings, as if memories of the old days were a spice. Uncooked nuts are also essential to accompany this dish. So I make a salad with autumn fruits and chestnuts. It is very pleasant for tongues that have been heated by the hot soup.
Note
With the large chunk of meat it feels like a typical American dish. Since the meat is soft enough to break into pieces easily, it is easy to eat even without carving it in advance. Moreover, the combination of chestnuts and kaki in the salad is delightful, and it can also be enjoyed as dessert.
Recipe
Corned Beef
Prepare around 1kg of beef filet (or round) with not too much fat. Rub coarse salt all over and put it in a refrigerator overnight to remove blood. Keep the meat in its juices for five to seven days. Turn it over sometimes to enable the flavor to enter the meat. To make the soup, mix 3 cups of water, 10 grain peppers, 2 cloves, 1 bay leaf, a small quantity of thinly sliced onions and celery leaves, and 3 tablespoons of salt; boil them and then let it cool. Wash the meat briefly, and cook it for 2 or 3 hours in water with a bit of Japanese sake. Then put in uncut carrots, potatoes, onions, cabbages, celeries, and other vegetables, and cook again for over an hour. Good meat is enough as it is, but you can add some bouillon if it is necessary.
Accompanying salad
Cut persimmons into a ginkgo shape and sprinkle some sweet sake over them. Peel the chestnuts and put them in water immediately. Mix pounded sesame, mayonnaise, and yogurt to make the sauce. Quickly dress everything with the sauce and place them on endive leaves. I used sweet roasted chestnuts when taking the photograph since I didn't have uncooked chestnuts at that time. I also put some Japanese pears to add more crunchiness. It'd also be interesting to add grapes.
Translated by Maiko Noda
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