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A Country That's So Close and Yet So Far
"Rocket festival"

Hiromi Kimoto
March 25, 2002

The Laotian New Year's celebration called Pee mai, which was from April 13 to 16, is over, and we now have a rocket festival, Boun Bang Fai, opening in every village. On last Sunday, as I found that there would be one at a village 25km away from my house, I decided to go.

You might quizzically say "rocket?" but yes, it is really about rocket. They would attach a cylinder filled with gunpowder to a long bamboo stick, and let off in the sky. It must have been stuffed with quite a lot of gunpowder as it was flying magnificently high into the sky. At a village, families and friends would come together, and make rockets under the instruction of a monk. Because a rocket that flew the highest and most splendidly was supposed to be rewarded, everybody was earnest in making his or her rocket. Then, on that day, having those with rockets taking a lead, villagers would walk in a parade throughout the village. Everybody would dress weirdly for that. For example, men would wear makeup and female dress while women would wield some big-sized models for men. Some people would also beat a drum or cymbals with all their strengths as much as they could hurt our ears.

I guess that you wonder what this is all about. In fact, this is a rain-making ritual. All men and women wear strange clothes with an ulterior motive to offend the rain sprite. I suppose that, considering that the offending is not enough, they would also shoot rockets to surprise the sprite. By doing so, they are hoping to have some rain that farmers are looking forward to getting for their rice plants. It is a traditional ceremony with such intention.

At a site where the ceremony would be held in the village, there were many stalls standing closely in a line as selling juice, beer, fruits, sausage, and the Laotian-style roast chicken; it was exactly like a festival in Japan. There also was a musical band in a corner of the site, and everybody was dancing pleasantly with the Laotian folk songs. In addition, there was a large bamboo-made launching pad, which looked to be as big as 5m, at the open space, and rockets were launching out one after another. There were quite many of them failing to be launched, and I felt a bit sorry. Some middle-aged women were looking at each stall with a bottle of beer in one hand. I have never seen such vigorous and dynamic women there. Not only the women but also men seemed to be drinking so much local sake and Lao beer.

My husband and I stayed there only for about 30 minutes. On the following day, we found out that the Laotians working in my husband's office were also there in that village. They have left the house at around 17:00, and to my astonishment, they went back atÉ4:00 in the morning! I heard that they were having a spree as drinking, singing, and dancing with the villagers. My husband was impressed that they came to work the next day. By the way, Laotian people love alcohol beverages and to party. I think it is great that women are also involved in such party and having a merry time together.

It rained 3 days after the festival. Yet, it seems that rainy season is slow in coming this year.

Translated by Maiko Noda

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